Choosing between flexible and rigid ductwork for a replacement project is a key decision that impacts both the effectiveness and cost of your HVAC system. Its not a one-size-fits-all answer, and understanding the pros and cons of each is crucial.
Rigid ductwork, typically made of galvanized steel or aluminum, is the traditional choice. Its known for its durability and superior airflow. The rigid structure resists compression and kinks, minimizing air leakage and ensuring efficient delivery of heated or cooled air. This translates to lower energy bills and a more consistent temperature throughout your home. However, rigid ducts are more complex to install, requiring specialized tools and expertise. Navigating tight spaces can be challenging, and the installation process is generally more time-consuming and expensive.
Flexible ductwork, often made of a wire coil covered in plastic or aluminum foil, offers a more affordable and easier installation. Its flexibility allows it to snake through tight spaces and around obstacles with relative ease, making it a popular choice for retrofits or additions. This can significantly reduce labor costs. However, flexible ducts are more prone to kinks, compression, and tears, which can restrict airflow and reduce efficiency. Over time, this can lead to higher energy bills and uneven heating or cooling. The interior surface also tends to accumulate dust and debris more readily than rigid ducts, potentially impacting indoor air quality.
So, which is right for your duct replacement project? If your budget is tight and accessibility is a major concern, flexible ductwork might be a viable option, especially for short runs. However, for optimal performance, longevity, and indoor air quality, rigid ductwork is generally the preferred choice. Its worth discussing your specific needs and circumstances with a qualified HVAC professional. They can assess your homes layout, your budget, and your heating and cooling needs to recommend the best ductwork material for your situation. A proper evaluation will ensure that your new ductwork delivers efficient and reliable comfort for years to come.
Replacing your ductwork isnt just about swapping old for new; its about maximizing efficiency and comfort in your home. Getting it right involves understanding the best practices for installation, which directly impact the systems performance and longevity. Heres a look at some key considerations during the duct replacement process:
First, proper planning is crucial. Before any demolition begins, a thorough assessment of your homes heating and cooling needs should be conducted. This involves calculating the correct sizing for the new ductwork based on factors like square footage, insulation, and window efficiency. Oversized or undersized ducts can lead to uneven temperatures, wasted energy, and increased utility bills. A professional HVAC technician can perform a Manual J calculation to determine the optimal airflow requirements.
Next, material selection plays a significant role. While flexible ductwork is easier to install, rigid metal ducts, like galvanized steel or aluminum, offer superior airflow and durability. They are less prone to leaks and restrictions, leading to better system performance. If flexible ducts are used, they should be stretched taut and supported properly to minimize airflow resistance. Insulation is another critical aspect. Properly insulating ductwork prevents energy loss and condensation, especially in unconditioned spaces like attics and crawlspaces.
During the installation process itself, airtightness is paramount. Leaks in ductwork can significantly reduce system efficiency, leading to higher energy bills and inconsistent temperatures. All joints and connections should be sealed meticulously with mastic sealant, not duct tape, which degrades over time. Properly sealing the ductwork ensures that conditioned air reaches its intended destination and prevents unconditioned air from entering the system.
Furthermore, the layout and design of the ductwork are essential for optimal performance. Long, convoluted runs should be minimized, and sharp bends should be avoided whenever possible. Straight, short duct runs with gradual turns promote efficient airflow and reduce pressure drop. The location of registers and returns also impacts airflow and temperature distribution. They should be strategically placed to ensure even heating and cooling throughout the space.
Finally, commissioning and testing are vital steps after installation. A professional should perform a thorough inspection to verify the integrity of the system and ensure proper airflow. Testing the static pressure can identify any restrictions or leaks, allowing for adjustments before the system is put into full operation.
In conclusion, replacing your ductwork is an investment that can significantly improve your homes comfort and energy efficiency. By adhering to these best practices during the installation process, you can ensure that your new system performs optimally for years to come, saving you money and providing a comfortable living environment.
After the dust settles from a duct replacement project, and the shiny new ductwork gleams, comes a crucial step often overlooked: post-installation testing and inspection. This isnt just a formality; its the assurance that your investment is working as intended and delivering the comfort and efficiency you expect. Think of it as the final quality control check before you can truly breathe easy.
Post-installation testing focuses on verifying several key aspects. Firstly, we want to ensure airtightness. Leaks in the ductwork are like holes in your pocket – they bleed energy and money. Testers use specialized equipment, like duct pressurization testers, to pinpoint any leaks and quantify the air leakage rate. This information is critical for optimizing system performance and minimizing energy waste.
Next, airflow is evaluated. Proper airflow distribution is vital for even temperatures throughout your space, preventing hot and cold spots. Technicians measure airflow at registers and grilles to ensure the designed CFM (cubic feet per minute) is being delivered. This step helps identify any blockages or imbalances in the system.
The inspection component is a visual assessment of the entire installation. This includes checking for proper insulation, secure connections, and the overall quality of workmanship. Inspectors look for any potential issues that might affect performance or longevity, such as kinks in flexible ductwork or improperly sealed joints. They also verify that the system meets all applicable codes and standards.
Finally, a comprehensive report summarizing the findings is typically provided. This report documents the test results and any identified issues, along with recommendations for corrective actions if necessary. This documentation is valuable for both the homeowner and the contractor, providing a record of the systems performance and ensuring accountability.
In essence, post-installation testing and inspection is the final seal of approval on your duct replacement project. Its the peace of mind knowing that your new system is operating at peak efficiency, delivering comfort and saving you money for years to come. So, dont skip this vital step – its a small investment that pays big dividends in the long run.
Once your shiny new ducts are installed, the story doesnt end. Just like a car needs regular tune-ups, your ductwork needs ongoing maintenance and care to ensure it continues performing efficiently and effectively for years to come. Neglecting this can lead to decreased airflow, reduced indoor air quality, and even premature system failure, ultimately costing you more in the long run.
A crucial part of this maintenance is regular filter changes. Think of your air filter as the lungs of your HVAC system. It traps dust, pollen, pet dander, and other airborne particles, preventing them from circulating throughout your home and clogging your ducts. Depending on the type of filter and your households specific needs (pets, allergies, etc.), filters should be replaced every one to three months. A dirty filter restricts airflow, forcing your system to work harder and consuming more energy.
Beyond filter changes, periodic professional inspections are highly recommended. A qualified HVAC technician can identify potential issues like leaks, loose connections, or accumulating debris within the ducts. They can also assess the overall condition of your ductwork and recommend necessary cleaning or repairs. Think of it as a check-up for your ducts. Catching small problems early can prevent them from becoming major headaches down the line.
Furthermore, you can take proactive steps at home. Regularly dusting and vacuuming around vents and registers helps prevent dust and debris from entering the ductwork. Be mindful of activities that might introduce excessive dust or debris into the air, such as home renovations. If possible, seal off the area being worked on to minimize dust migration.
Finally, pay attention to any signs of trouble. Reduced airflow, unusual noises coming from the vents, or an unexplained increase in energy bills could all indicate a problem with your ductwork. Addressing these issues promptly can prevent further damage and maintain a healthy and comfortable indoor environment. Just like any other important system in your home, a little ongoing maintenance and care for your ducts goes a long way.
Industrial exhaust ducts are pipe systems that connect hoods to industrial chimneys through other components of exhaust systems like fans, collectors, etc. Ducts are low-pressure pneumatic conveyors to convey dust, particles, shavings, fumes, or chemical hazardous components from air in the vicinity to a shop floor or any other specific locations like tanks, sanding machines, or laboratory hoods. Ducts can be fabricated from a variety of materials including carbon steel, stainless steel, PVC, and fiberglass. [1] They can be fabricated through rolling (preferable for ducts of 12" or more in diameter) or extruded (for ducts up to 18").[2]
HVAC systems do not include this category of industrial application, namely exhaust systems. A distinction from HVAC system ducts is that the fluid (air) conveyed through the duct system may not be homogeneous. An industrial exhaust duct system is primarily a pneumatic conveying system and is basically governed by laws of flow of fluids.[3]
The conveying fluid that flows through the duct system is air. Air transports materials from the hood to a destination. It is also instrumental in capturing the material into the flow system. Air is a compressible fluid, but for engineering calculations, air is considered as incompressible as a simplification, without any significant errors.
Process design of exhaust system will include
The goal is to keep contaminants out using minimum airflow. It is estimated that increase in an inch wg[clarification needed] of static pressure can add a few thousands of dollars to the operation cost per annum.
The word duct is derived from the Latin word for led/leading. It may refer to:
A chimney is an architectural ventilation structure made of masonry, clay or metal that isolates hot toxic exhaust gases or smoke produced by a boiler, stove, furnace, incinerator, or fireplace from human living areas. Chimneys are typically vertical, or as near as possible to vertical, to ensure that the gases flow smoothly, drawing air into the combustion in what is known as the stack, or chimney effect. The space inside a chimney is called the flue. Chimneys are adjacent to large industrial refineries, fossil fuel combustion facilities or part of buildings, steam locomotives and ships.
In the United States, the term smokestack industry refers to the environmental impacts of burning fossil fuels by industrial society, including the electric industry during its earliest history. The term smokestack (colloquially, stack) is also used when referring to locomotive chimneys or ship chimneys, and the term funnel can also be used.[1][2]
The height of a chimney influences its ability to transfer flue gases to the external environment via stack effect. Additionally, the dispersion of pollutants at higher altitudes can reduce their impact on the immediate surroundings. The dispersion of pollutants over a greater area can reduce their concentrations and facilitate compliance with regulatory limits.
Industrial chimney use dates to the Romans, who drew smoke from their bakeries with tubes embedded in the walls. However, domestic chimneys first appeared in large dwellings in northern Europe in the 12th century. The earliest surviving example of an English chimney is at the keep of Conisbrough Castle in Yorkshire, which dates from 1185 AD,[3] but they did not become common in houses until the 16th and 17th centuries.[4] Smoke hoods were an early method of collecting the smoke into a chimney. These were typically much wider than modern chimneys and started relatively high above the fire, meaning more heat could escape into the room. Because the air going up the shaft was cooler, these could be made of less fireproof materials. Another step in the development of chimneys was the use of built-in ovens which allowed the household to bake at home. Industrial chimneys became common in the late 18th century.
Chimneys in ordinary dwellings were first built of wood and plaster or mud. Since then chimneys have traditionally been built of brick or stone, both in small and large buildings. Early chimneys were of simple brick construction. Later chimneys were constructed by placing the bricks around tile liners. To control downdrafts, venting caps (often called chimney pots) with a variety of designs are sometimes placed on the top of chimneys.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the methods used to extract lead from its ore produced large amounts of toxic fumes. In the north of England, long near-horizontal chimneys were built, often more than 3 km (2 mi) long, which typically terminated in a short vertical chimney in a remote location where the fumes would cause less harm. Lead and silver deposits formed on the inside of these long chimneys, and periodically workers would be sent along the chimneys to scrape off these valuable deposits.[5]
As a result of the limited ability to handle transverse loads with brick, chimneys in houses were often built in a "stack", with a fireplace on each floor of the house sharing a single chimney, often with such a stack at the front and back of the house. Today's central heating systems have made chimney placement less critical, and the use of non-structural gas vent pipe allows a flue gas conduit to be installed around obstructions and through walls.
Most modern high-efficiency heating appliances do not require a chimney. Such appliances are generally installed near an external wall, and a noncombustible wall thimble[clarification needed] allows a vent pipe to run directly through the external wall.
On a pitched roof where a chimney penetrates a roof, flashing is used to seal up the joints. The down-slope piece is called an apron, the sides receive step flashing and a cricket is used to divert water around the upper side of the chimney underneath the flashing.[6]
Industrial chimneys are commonly referred to as flue-gas stacks and are generally external structures, as opposed to those built into the wall of a building. They are generally located adjacent to a steam-generating boiler or industrial furnace and the gases are carried to them with ductwork. Today the use of reinforced concrete has almost entirely replaced brick as a structural element in the construction of industrial chimneys. Refractory bricks are often used as a lining, particularly if the type of fuel being burned generates flue gases containing acids. Modern industrial chimneys sometimes consist of a concrete windshield with a number of flues on the inside.
The 300 m (980 ft) high steam plant chimney at the Secunda CTL's synthetic fuel plant in Secunda, South Africa consists of a 26 m (85 ft) diameter windshield with four 4.6 metre diameter concrete flues which are lined with refractory bricks built on rings of corbels spaced at 10 metre intervals. The reinforced concrete can be cast by conventional formwork or sliding formwork. The height is to ensure the pollutants are dispersed over a wider area to meet legal or other safety requirements.
A flue liner is a secondary barrier in a chimney that protects the masonry from the acidic products of combustion, helps prevent flue gas from entering the house, and reduces the size of an oversized flue. Since the 1950s, building codes in many locations require newly built chimneys to have a flue liner. Chimneys built without a liner can usually have a liner added, but the type of liner needs to match the type of appliance it services. Flue liners may be clay or concrete tile, metal, or poured in place concrete.
Clay tile flue liners are very common in the United States, although it is the only liner that does not meet Underwriters Laboratories 1777 approval and frequently they have problems such as cracked tiles and improper installation.[7] Clay tiles are usually about 2 feet (0.61 m) long, available in various sizes and shapes, and are installed in new construction as the chimney is built. A refractory cement is used between each tile.
Metal liners may be stainless steel, aluminum, or galvanized iron and may be flexible or rigid pipes. Stainless steel is made in several types and thicknesses. Type 304 is used with firewood, wood pellet fuel, and non-condensing oil appliances, types 316 and 321 with coal, and type AL 29-4C is used with high efficiency condensing gas appliances. Stainless steel liners must have a cap and be insulated if they service solid fuel appliances, but following the manufacturer's instructions carefully.[7] Aluminum and galvanized steel chimneys are known as class A and class B chimneys. Class A are either an insulated, double wall stainless steel pipe or triple wall, air-insulated pipe often known by its genericized trade name Metalbestos. Class B are uninsulated double wall pipes often called B-vent, and are only used to vent non-condensing gas appliances. These may have an aluminum inside layer and galvanized steel outside layer.
Concrete flue liners are like clay liners but are made of a refractory cement and are more durable than the clay liners.
Poured in place concrete liners are made by pouring special concrete into the existing chimney with a form. These liners are highly durable, work with any heating appliance, and can reinforce a weak chimney, but they are irreversible.
A chimney pot is placed on top of the chimney to expand the length of the chimney inexpensively, and to improve the chimney's draft. A chimney with more than one pot on it indicates that multiple fireplaces on different floors share the chimney.
A cowl is placed on top of the chimney to prevent birds and other animals from nesting in the chimney. They often feature a rain guard to prevent rain or snow from going down the chimney. A metal wire mesh is often used as a spark arrestor to minimize burning debris from rising out of the chimney and making it onto the roof. Although the masonry inside the chimney can absorb a large amount of moisture which later evaporates, rainwater can collect at the base of the chimney. Sometimes weep holes are placed at the bottom of the chimney to drain out collected water.
A chimney cowl or wind directional cap is a helmet-shaped chimney cap that rotates to align with the wind and prevent a downdraft of smoke and wind down the chimney.
An H-style cap is a chimney top constructed from chimney pipes shaped like the letter H. It is an age-old method of regulating draft in situations where prevailing winds or turbulences cause downdraft and back-puffing. Although the H cap has a distinct advantage over most other downdraft caps, it fell out of favor because of its bulky design. It is found mostly in marine use but has been regaining popularity due to its energy-saving functionality. The H-cap stabilizes the draft rather than increasing it. Other downdraft caps are based on the Venturi effect, solving downdraft problems by increasing the updraft constantly resulting in much higher fuel consumption.
A chimney damper is a metal plate that can be positioned to close off the chimney when not in use and prevent outside air from entering the interior space, and can be opened to permit hot gases to exhaust when a fire is burning. A top damper or cap damper is a metal spring door placed at the top of the chimney with a long metal chain that allows one to open and close the damper from the fireplace. A throat damper is a metal plate at the base of the chimney, just above the firebox, that can be opened and closed by a lever, gear, or chain to seal off the fireplace from the chimney. The advantage of a top damper is the tight weatherproof seal that it provides when closed, which prevents cold outside air from flowing down the chimney and into the living space—a feature that can rarely be matched by the metal-on-metal seal afforded by a throat damper. Additionally, because the throat damper is subjected to intense heat from the fire directly below, it is common for the metal to become warped over time, thus further degrading the ability of the throat damper to seal. However, the advantage of a throat damper is that it seals off the living space from the air mass in the chimney, which, especially for chimneys positioned on an outside of wall of the home, is generally very cold. It is possible in practice to use both a top damper and a throat damper to obtain the benefits of both. The two top damper designs currently on the market are the Lyemance (pivoting door) and the Lock Top (translating door).
In the late Middle Ages in Western Europe the design of stepped gables arose to allow maintenance access to the chimney top, especially for tall structures such as castles and great manor houses.
When coal, oil, natural gas, wood, or any other fuel is combusted in a stove, oven, fireplace, hot water boiler, or industrial furnace, the hot combustion product gases that are formed are called flue gases. Those gases are generally exhausted to the ambient outside air through chimneys or industrial flue-gas stacks (sometimes referred to as smokestacks).
The combustion flue gases inside the chimneys or stacks are much hotter than the ambient outside air and therefore less dense than the ambient air. That causes the bottom of the vertical column of hot flue gas to have a lower pressure than the pressure at the bottom of a corresponding column of outside air. That higher pressure outside the chimney is the driving force that moves the required combustion air into the combustion zone and also moves the flue gas up and out of the chimney. That movement or flow of combustion air and flue gas is called "natural draught/draft", "natural ventilation", "chimney effect", or "stack effect". The taller the stack, the more draught or draft is created. There can be cases of diminishing returns: if a stack is overly tall in relation to the heat being sent out of the stack, the flue gases may cool before reaching the top of the chimney. This condition can result in poor drafting, and in the case of wood burning appliances, the cooling of the gases before emission can cause creosote to condense near the top of the chimney. The creosote can restrict the exit of flue gases and may pose a fire hazard.
Designing chimneys and stacks to provide the correct amount of natural draft involves a number of design factors, many of which require iterative trial-and-error methods.
As a "first guess" approximation, the following equation can be used to estimate the natural draught/draft flow rate by assuming that the molecular mass (i.e., molecular weight) of the flue gas and the external air are equal and that the frictional pressure and heat losses are negligible: Q = C A 2 g H T i − T e T e \displaystyle Q=C\,A\,\sqrt 2\,g\,H\,\frac T_i-T_eT_e where:
Combining two flows into chimney: At+Af<A, where At=7.1 inch2 is the minimum required flow area from water heater tank and Af=19.6 inch2 is the minimum flow area from a furnace of a central heating system.
Gas fired appliances must have a draft hood to cool combustion products entering the chimney and prevent updrafts or downdrafts.[8][9][10]
A characteristic problem of chimneys is they develop deposits of creosote on the walls of the structure when used with wood as a fuel. Deposits of this substance can interfere with the airflow and more importantly, they are combustible and can cause dangerous chimney fires if the deposits ignite in the chimney.
Heaters that burn natural gas drastically reduce the amount of creosote buildup due to natural gas burning much cleaner and more efficiently than traditional solid fuels. While in most cases there is no need to clean a gas chimney on an annual basis that does not mean that other parts of the chimney cannot fall into disrepair. Disconnected or loose chimney fittings caused by corrosion over time can pose serious dangers for residents due to leakage of carbon monoxide into the home.[11] Thus, it is recommended—and in some countries even mandatory—that chimneys be inspected annually and cleaned on a regular basis to prevent these problems. The workers who perform this task are called chimney sweeps or steeplejacks. This work used to be done largely by child labour and, as such, features in Victorian literature. In the Middle Ages in some parts of Europe, a stepped gable design was developed, partly to provide access to chimneys without use of ladders.
Masonry (brick) chimneys have also proven to be particularly prone to crumbling during earthquakes. Government housing authorities in cities prone to earthquakes such as San Francisco, Los Angeles, and San Diego now recommend building new homes with stud-framed chimneys around a metal flue. Bracing or strapping old masonry chimneys has not proven to be very effective in preventing damage or injury from earthquakes. It is now possible to buy "faux-brick" facades to cover these modern chimney structures.
Other potential problems include:
Several chimneys with observation decks were built. The following possibly incomplete list shows them.
At several thermal power stations at least one smokestack is used as electricity pylon. The following possibly incomplete list shows them.
Nearly all this structures exist in an area, which was once part of the Soviet Union. Although this use has the disadvantage that conductor ropes may corrode faster due to the exhaust gases, one can find such structures also sometimes in countries not influenced by the former Soviet Union. An example herefore is one chimney of Scholven Power Plant in Gelsenkirchen, which carries one circuit of an outgoing 220 kV-line.
Chimneys can also carry a water tank on their structure. This combination has the advantage that the warm smoke running through the chimney prevents the water in the tank from freezing. Before World War II such structures were not uncommon, especially in countries influenced by Germany.
Chimneys can carry antennas for radio relay services, cell phone transmissions, FM-radio and TV on their structure. Also long wire antennas for mediumwave transmissions can be fixed at chimneys. In all cases it had to be considered that these objects can easily corrode especially when placed near the exhaust. Sometimes chimneys were converted into radio towers and are not useable as ventilation structure any more.
As chimneys are often the tallest part of a factory, they offer the possibility as advertising billboard either by writing the name of the company to which they belong on the shaft or by installing advertisement boards on their structure.
At some power stations, which are equipped with plants for the removal of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides, it is possible to use the cooling tower as a chimney. Such cooling towers can be seen in Germany at the Großkrotzenburg Power Station and at the Rostock Power Station. At power stations that are not equipped for removing sulfur dioxide, such usage of cooling towers could result in serious corrosion problems which are not easy to prevent.
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