Duct replacement isnt the most glamorous home improvement, but it can be one of the most impactful. Nobody dreams of shiny new ductwork, but breathing easier, enjoying consistent temperatures, and seeing lower energy bills? Now thats appealing. So, lets talk about the often-dreaded topic: duct replacement costs and budgeting.
First, understand that theres no one-size-fits-all price tag. Think of it like buying a car – a compact economy model is different from a fully-loaded SUV. Similarly, the cost of replacing your ducts depends on factors like the size of your home, the complexity of the duct system, the materials used (flexible ductwork versus rigid metal), accessibility (crawlspace versus attic), and your geographic location. Labor costs also vary depending on where you live and the contractor you choose.
A small home with a simple duct system might see replacement costs in the lower thousands, while a larger, more complex system could reach into the upper thousands. Adding features like insulation or zoning can further impact the price. Dont be scared off by these figures; think of it as an investment. A properly functioning duct system can significantly improve your homes energy efficiency, leading to lower utility bills over time.
So, how do you budget for this potentially significant expense? Start by getting multiple quotes from reputable HVAC contractors. Be sure they conduct a thorough inspection of your current system and provide detailed proposals outlining the scope of work and associated costs. Dont just go with the lowest bidder; consider their experience, reputation, and warranties.
Once you have a few quotes, compare them carefully. Look beyond the bottom line and consider the materials being used, the labor involved, and any additional services offered. This will help you make an informed decision that balances cost and quality.
Financing options are often available for larger projects, allowing you to spread the cost over time. Explore these options with your chosen contractor or through your bank or credit union.
Finally, factor in a little contingency for unexpected issues that may arise during the replacement process. Older homes, in particular, can harbor surprises that might require additional work.
Replacing your ducts is an investment in your homes comfort, health, and energy efficiency. While the upfront cost might seem daunting, the long-term benefits can make it a worthwhile expense. Careful planning, thorough research, and a realistic budget will help you navigate the process and enjoy the rewards of a well-functioning HVAC system.
Choosing the right ductwork material is a crucial step in any duct replacement project. Its not just about swapping out the old for the new; its about optimizing your HVAC systems efficiency, improving your indoor air quality, and ensuring the longevity of your investment. Making the right choice can save you money on energy bills and reduce the need for future repairs.
The most common materials youll encounter are galvanized steel, aluminum, and flexible ductwork. Galvanized steel is the workhorse of the industry, known for its strength and durability. It can withstand high pressures and temperatures, making it a good choice for central HVAC systems. However, its also the heaviest option and can be prone to rust if not properly sealed.
Aluminum offers a lighter alternative to steel, which can make installation easier and less expensive. Its also naturally resistant to corrosion, a definite plus. However, aluminum is less rigid than steel, so it can be more susceptible to dents and damage. Its often a preferred choice for smaller systems or specific applications like bathroom exhaust fans.
Flexible ductwork, typically made of a wire coil covered in plastic or aluminum foil, is the easiest to install, snaking its way through tight spaces with minimal fuss. It's also the most affordable option upfront. However, its flexible nature can actually restrict airflow, reducing your systems efficiency. Its also more prone to leaks and can deteriorate faster than metal ducts.
Beyond these common choices, there are also fiberglass ducts, which offer excellent insulation and sound dampening, and fiberboard ducts, a more environmentally friendly option made from recycled materials.
Ultimately, the best ductwork material for your home depends on several factors. Consider your budget, the size and layout of your home, your climate, and the specific needs of your HVAC system. Don't hesitate to talk to a qualified HVAC professional. They can assess your situation and recommend the best material to maximize your comfort and energy savings. Choosing wisely now can save you headaches and money down the road.
Living in New Smyrna Beach means enjoying warm weather, ocean breezes, and outdoor activities almost year-round. However, the local climate also places extra demands on your HVAC system. Regular maintenance is essential to keep your system running efficiently and to avoid unexpected breakdowns. Follow this simple seasonal HVAC maintenance checklist to protect your comfort and lower your energy costs.
Spring in New Smyrna Beach brings rising temperatures and higher humidity. Prepare your system before the summer heat arrives.
Dirty filters restrict airflow and strain your system. Replace your filters every 1 to 3 months. Use high-quality filters that match your system’s requirements.
Dust and debris collect over time. Use a vacuum or damp cloth to clean all air vents and registers. Clear any furniture blocking the airflow.
Set your thermostat to cooling mode. Test it to ensure it switches between heating and cooling smoothly. If you have a programmable thermostat, update the schedule for warmer temperatures.
Remove any leaves, branches, or dirt from around the condenser unit. Keep at least two feet of clear space around it. Hose off the exterior to remove built-up debris.
A spring tune-up by a licensed technician from Florida Fresh-Air can catch small problems early. Professional maintenance includes checking refrigerant levels, inspecting wiring, and testing system controls.
The Florida summer puts HVAC systems under heavy stress. Keep your system in peak condition during the hottest months.
Check the refrigerant lines for signs of wear, leaks, or ice buildup. Low refrigerant levels cause your system to work harder and cool less efficiently.
A clogged drain line can cause water damage inside your home. Flush the line with a mixture of water and vinegar to prevent blockages.
Grinding, banging, or rattling sounds are signs of trouble. If you hear strange noises, contact Florida Fresh-Air immediately for an inspection.
If certain rooms feel warmer than others, there could be ductwork issues or airflow restrictions. Schedule an inspection if you notice inconsistent cooling.
During heavy use, replace your air filters every month to maintain proper airflow and indoor air quality.
Fall is the ideal time to prepare for cooler nights and reduce wear on your HVAC system.
Leaks or damage in the ducts can waste energy and lower indoor comfort. Schedule a duct inspection and sealing if necessary.
Switch your thermostat to heating mode. Let the system run for a few minutes to make sure it produces warm air without any burning smells or unusual sounds.
Clear away leaves, dirt, and debris that may have collected during summer storms. Keeping the outdoor unit clean prevents overheating and improves efficiency.
If you use a gas furnace, make sure your carbon monoxide detectors work properly. Replace the batteries and test the alarm.
A fall inspection ensures your HVAC system is ready for the cooler season. Florida Fresh-Air technicians can identify issues before they lead to costly repairs.
While winters in New Smyrna Beach are mild, some maintenance tasks still help improve comfort and system longevity.
Lower your thermostat when you are not home to save energy. A programmable thermostat can help manage temperatures automatically.
Check doors and windows for drafts. Proper insulation reduces the workload on your HVAC system by keeping warm air inside.
Even during winter, changing your air filters helps maintain good indoor air quality and system efficiency.
If you notice longer heating cycles or higher energy bills, have a technician check your system for hidden problems.
Make sure furniture or rugs are not blocking vents. Good airflow is necessary for efficient heating and cooling year-round.
Routine maintenance offers several key benefits. It improves system efficiency, which lowers energy bills. It extends the life of your equipment, saving you from premature replacements. Most importantly, it helps ensure reliable heating and cooling when you need it most.
By following this checklist, New Smyrna Beach residents can enjoy better indoor comfort, healthier air, and fewer HVAC emergencies. Trust Florida Fresh-Air to support your maintenance needs. Our skilled technicians are ready to help you stay comfortable through every season.
Maintaining Your New Duct System So, youve finally bitten the bullet and replaced your old, leaky ductwork.. Congratulations!
Posted by on 2025-04-28
After the dust settles (literally!) from your duct replacement project, the job isnt quite finished.. A crucial final step is the post-installation inspection and maintenance phase.
Preventing Future Duct Disasters: How to Spot Trouble Before It Drains Your Wallet Nobody wants to think about their ductwork.. Its out of sight, out of mind, right?
Replacing your ductwork is a big job, one that significantly impacts your homes comfort and energy efficiency. So, finding the right HVAC contractor is crucial. You dont want just anyone tinkering with the lungs of your house, do you? This isnt a DIY project; it requires expertise and experience.
Start your search by tapping into your network. Ask friends, family, and neighbors for recommendations. Online reviews can also be helpful, but take them with a grain of salt – some can be less than genuine. Look for contractors with a strong local presence and a history of satisfied customers. Check with the Better Business Bureau for any red flags.
Once you have a few potential candidates, get quotes. Dont automatically jump at the lowest price. Remember, you often get what you pay for. A suspiciously low bid could indicate subpar materials or corner-cutting. A reputable contractor will provide a detailed estimate outlining the scope of work, materials used, and labor costs.
Crucially, verify licensing and insurance. This protects you if anything goes wrong during the project. Ask about their experience with duct replacement specifically – not just general HVAC work. Inquire about the types of materials they use and their preferred installation methods. A good contractor will be happy to answer your questions and explain the process in detail.
Finally, trust your gut. Did you feel comfortable during the consultation? Did the contractor seem knowledgeable and professional? A good working relationship with your contractor is important, especially for a project as significant as duct replacement. Choosing the right contractor can mean the difference between a smoothly running system and years of headaches. Take your time, do your research, and youll be breathing easy in your comfortably climate-controlled home in no time.
Keeping your new ductwork in tip-top shape isnt glamorous, but its crucial for a comfortable and energy-efficient home. Think of it like a car – you wouldnt drive it off the lot and never change the oil, right? Your ducts need regular attention too, to ensure theyre delivering clean, conditioned air effectively.
One of the easiest things you can do is regularly replace your air filters. A clogged filter restricts airflow, making your system work harder and potentially shortening its lifespan. Aim for a change every 1-3 months, or even more frequently if you have pets or allergies. Its a small task that makes a big difference.
Beyond filters, keeping the ducts themselves clean is important. Over time, dust, pet dander, and other debris can accumulate inside, impacting air quality and system efficiency. Consider having your ducts professionally cleaned every few years, especially if you notice signs like increased dust in your home or reduced airflow.
Another key aspect of maintenance is ensuring your ducts are properly sealed. Leaks can allow conditioned air to escape, wasting energy and money. While a professional inspection is recommended, you can sometimes spot obvious gaps or loose connections yourself. Sealing these leaks with mastic sealant – not duct tape! – can improve system performance.
Finally, pay attention to your energy bills. A sudden spike could indicate a problem with your ductwork, such as a leak or blockage. Dont ignore these warning signs. Addressing issues early can prevent more costly repairs down the road.
Maintaining your new duct system isnt a one-time thing; its an ongoing process. By making these simple tasks part of your regular home maintenance routine, you can ensure your system runs efficiently, provides clean air, and lasts for years to come.
Industrial exhaust ducts are pipe systems that connect hoods to industrial chimneys through other components of exhaust systems like fans, collectors, etc. Ducts are low-pressure pneumatic conveyors to convey dust, particles, shavings, fumes, or chemical hazardous components from air in the vicinity to a shop floor or any other specific locations like tanks, sanding machines, or laboratory hoods. Ducts can be fabricated from a variety of materials including carbon steel, stainless steel, PVC, and fiberglass. [1] They can be fabricated through rolling (preferable for ducts of 12" or more in diameter) or extruded (for ducts up to 18").[2]
HVAC systems do not include this category of industrial application, namely exhaust systems. A distinction from HVAC system ducts is that the fluid (air) conveyed through the duct system may not be homogeneous. An industrial exhaust duct system is primarily a pneumatic conveying system and is basically governed by laws of flow of fluids.[3]
The conveying fluid that flows through the duct system is air. Air transports materials from the hood to a destination. It is also instrumental in capturing the material into the flow system. Air is a compressible fluid, but for engineering calculations, air is considered as incompressible as a simplification, without any significant errors.
Process design of exhaust system will include
The goal is to keep contaminants out using minimum airflow. It is estimated that increase in an inch wg[clarification needed] of static pressure can add a few thousands of dollars to the operation cost per annum.
The word duct is derived from the Latin word for led/leading. It may refer to:
A chimney is an architectural ventilation structure made of masonry, clay or metal that isolates hot toxic exhaust gases or smoke produced by a boiler, stove, furnace, incinerator, or fireplace from human living areas. Chimneys are typically vertical, or as near as possible to vertical, to ensure that the gases flow smoothly, drawing air into the combustion in what is known as the stack, or chimney effect. The space inside a chimney is called the flue. Chimneys are adjacent to large industrial refineries, fossil fuel combustion facilities or part of buildings, steam locomotives and ships.
In the United States, the term smokestack industry refers to the environmental impacts of burning fossil fuels by industrial society, including the electric industry during its earliest history. The term smokestack (colloquially, stack) is also used when referring to locomotive chimneys or ship chimneys, and the term funnel can also be used.[1][2]
The height of a chimney influences its ability to transfer flue gases to the external environment via stack effect. Additionally, the dispersion of pollutants at higher altitudes can reduce their impact on the immediate surroundings. The dispersion of pollutants over a greater area can reduce their concentrations and facilitate compliance with regulatory limits.
Industrial chimney use dates to the Romans, who drew smoke from their bakeries with tubes embedded in the walls. However, domestic chimneys first appeared in large dwellings in northern Europe in the 12th century. The earliest surviving example of an English chimney is at the keep of Conisbrough Castle in Yorkshire, which dates from 1185 AD,[3] but they did not become common in houses until the 16th and 17th centuries.[4] Smoke hoods were an early method of collecting the smoke into a chimney. These were typically much wider than modern chimneys and started relatively high above the fire, meaning more heat could escape into the room. Because the air going up the shaft was cooler, these could be made of less fireproof materials. Another step in the development of chimneys was the use of built-in ovens which allowed the household to bake at home. Industrial chimneys became common in the late 18th century.
Chimneys in ordinary dwellings were first built of wood and plaster or mud. Since then chimneys have traditionally been built of brick or stone, both in small and large buildings. Early chimneys were of simple brick construction. Later chimneys were constructed by placing the bricks around tile liners. To control downdrafts, venting caps (often called chimney pots) with a variety of designs are sometimes placed on the top of chimneys.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the methods used to extract lead from its ore produced large amounts of toxic fumes. In the north of England, long near-horizontal chimneys were built, often more than 3 km (2 mi) long, which typically terminated in a short vertical chimney in a remote location where the fumes would cause less harm. Lead and silver deposits formed on the inside of these long chimneys, and periodically workers would be sent along the chimneys to scrape off these valuable deposits.[5]
As a result of the limited ability to handle transverse loads with brick, chimneys in houses were often built in a "stack", with a fireplace on each floor of the house sharing a single chimney, often with such a stack at the front and back of the house. Today's central heating systems have made chimney placement less critical, and the use of non-structural gas vent pipe allows a flue gas conduit to be installed around obstructions and through walls.
Most modern high-efficiency heating appliances do not require a chimney. Such appliances are generally installed near an external wall, and a noncombustible wall thimble[clarification needed] allows a vent pipe to run directly through the external wall.
On a pitched roof where a chimney penetrates a roof, flashing is used to seal up the joints. The down-slope piece is called an apron, the sides receive step flashing and a cricket is used to divert water around the upper side of the chimney underneath the flashing.[6]
Industrial chimneys are commonly referred to as flue-gas stacks and are generally external structures, as opposed to those built into the wall of a building. They are generally located adjacent to a steam-generating boiler or industrial furnace and the gases are carried to them with ductwork. Today the use of reinforced concrete has almost entirely replaced brick as a structural element in the construction of industrial chimneys. Refractory bricks are often used as a lining, particularly if the type of fuel being burned generates flue gases containing acids. Modern industrial chimneys sometimes consist of a concrete windshield with a number of flues on the inside.
The 300 m (980 ft) high steam plant chimney at the Secunda CTL's synthetic fuel plant in Secunda, South Africa consists of a 26 m (85 ft) diameter windshield with four 4.6 metre diameter concrete flues which are lined with refractory bricks built on rings of corbels spaced at 10 metre intervals. The reinforced concrete can be cast by conventional formwork or sliding formwork. The height is to ensure the pollutants are dispersed over a wider area to meet legal or other safety requirements.
A flue liner is a secondary barrier in a chimney that protects the masonry from the acidic products of combustion, helps prevent flue gas from entering the house, and reduces the size of an oversized flue. Since the 1950s, building codes in many locations require newly built chimneys to have a flue liner. Chimneys built without a liner can usually have a liner added, but the type of liner needs to match the type of appliance it services. Flue liners may be clay or concrete tile, metal, or poured in place concrete.
Clay tile flue liners are very common in the United States, although it is the only liner that does not meet Underwriters Laboratories 1777 approval and frequently they have problems such as cracked tiles and improper installation.[7] Clay tiles are usually about 2 feet (0.61 m) long, available in various sizes and shapes, and are installed in new construction as the chimney is built. A refractory cement is used between each tile.
Metal liners may be stainless steel, aluminum, or galvanized iron and may be flexible or rigid pipes. Stainless steel is made in several types and thicknesses. Type 304 is used with firewood, wood pellet fuel, and non-condensing oil appliances, types 316 and 321 with coal, and type AL 29-4C is used with high efficiency condensing gas appliances. Stainless steel liners must have a cap and be insulated if they service solid fuel appliances, but following the manufacturer's instructions carefully.[7] Aluminum and galvanized steel chimneys are known as class A and class B chimneys. Class A are either an insulated, double wall stainless steel pipe or triple wall, air-insulated pipe often known by its genericized trade name Metalbestos. Class B are uninsulated double wall pipes often called B-vent, and are only used to vent non-condensing gas appliances. These may have an aluminum inside layer and galvanized steel outside layer.
Concrete flue liners are like clay liners but are made of a refractory cement and are more durable than the clay liners.
Poured in place concrete liners are made by pouring special concrete into the existing chimney with a form. These liners are highly durable, work with any heating appliance, and can reinforce a weak chimney, but they are irreversible.
A chimney pot is placed on top of the chimney to expand the length of the chimney inexpensively, and to improve the chimney's draft. A chimney with more than one pot on it indicates that multiple fireplaces on different floors share the chimney.
A cowl is placed on top of the chimney to prevent birds and other animals from nesting in the chimney. They often feature a rain guard to prevent rain or snow from going down the chimney. A metal wire mesh is often used as a spark arrestor to minimize burning debris from rising out of the chimney and making it onto the roof. Although the masonry inside the chimney can absorb a large amount of moisture which later evaporates, rainwater can collect at the base of the chimney. Sometimes weep holes are placed at the bottom of the chimney to drain out collected water.
A chimney cowl or wind directional cap is a helmet-shaped chimney cap that rotates to align with the wind and prevent a downdraft of smoke and wind down the chimney.
An H-style cap is a chimney top constructed from chimney pipes shaped like the letter H. It is an age-old method of regulating draft in situations where prevailing winds or turbulences cause downdraft and back-puffing. Although the H cap has a distinct advantage over most other downdraft caps, it fell out of favor because of its bulky design. It is found mostly in marine use but has been regaining popularity due to its energy-saving functionality. The H-cap stabilizes the draft rather than increasing it. Other downdraft caps are based on the Venturi effect, solving downdraft problems by increasing the updraft constantly resulting in much higher fuel consumption.
A chimney damper is a metal plate that can be positioned to close off the chimney when not in use and prevent outside air from entering the interior space, and can be opened to permit hot gases to exhaust when a fire is burning. A top damper or cap damper is a metal spring door placed at the top of the chimney with a long metal chain that allows one to open and close the damper from the fireplace. A throat damper is a metal plate at the base of the chimney, just above the firebox, that can be opened and closed by a lever, gear, or chain to seal off the fireplace from the chimney. The advantage of a top damper is the tight weatherproof seal that it provides when closed, which prevents cold outside air from flowing down the chimney and into the living space—a feature that can rarely be matched by the metal-on-metal seal afforded by a throat damper. Additionally, because the throat damper is subjected to intense heat from the fire directly below, it is common for the metal to become warped over time, thus further degrading the ability of the throat damper to seal. However, the advantage of a throat damper is that it seals off the living space from the air mass in the chimney, which, especially for chimneys positioned on an outside of wall of the home, is generally very cold. It is possible in practice to use both a top damper and a throat damper to obtain the benefits of both. The two top damper designs currently on the market are the Lyemance (pivoting door) and the Lock Top (translating door).
In the late Middle Ages in Western Europe the design of stepped gables arose to allow maintenance access to the chimney top, especially for tall structures such as castles and great manor houses.
When coal, oil, natural gas, wood, or any other fuel is combusted in a stove, oven, fireplace, hot water boiler, or industrial furnace, the hot combustion product gases that are formed are called flue gases. Those gases are generally exhausted to the ambient outside air through chimneys or industrial flue-gas stacks (sometimes referred to as smokestacks).
The combustion flue gases inside the chimneys or stacks are much hotter than the ambient outside air and therefore less dense than the ambient air. That causes the bottom of the vertical column of hot flue gas to have a lower pressure than the pressure at the bottom of a corresponding column of outside air. That higher pressure outside the chimney is the driving force that moves the required combustion air into the combustion zone and also moves the flue gas up and out of the chimney. That movement or flow of combustion air and flue gas is called "natural draught/draft", "natural ventilation", "chimney effect", or "stack effect". The taller the stack, the more draught or draft is created. There can be cases of diminishing returns: if a stack is overly tall in relation to the heat being sent out of the stack, the flue gases may cool before reaching the top of the chimney. This condition can result in poor drafting, and in the case of wood burning appliances, the cooling of the gases before emission can cause creosote to condense near the top of the chimney. The creosote can restrict the exit of flue gases and may pose a fire hazard.
Designing chimneys and stacks to provide the correct amount of natural draft involves a number of design factors, many of which require iterative trial-and-error methods.
As a "first guess" approximation, the following equation can be used to estimate the natural draught/draft flow rate by assuming that the molecular mass (i.e., molecular weight) of the flue gas and the external air are equal and that the frictional pressure and heat losses are negligible: Q = C A 2 g H T i − T e T e \displaystyle Q=C\,A\,\sqrt 2\,g\,H\,\frac T_i-T_eT_e where:
Combining two flows into chimney: At+Af<A, where At=7.1 inch2 is the minimum required flow area from water heater tank and Af=19.6 inch2 is the minimum flow area from a furnace of a central heating system.
Gas fired appliances must have a draft hood to cool combustion products entering the chimney and prevent updrafts or downdrafts.[8][9][10]
A characteristic problem of chimneys is they develop deposits of creosote on the walls of the structure when used with wood as a fuel. Deposits of this substance can interfere with the airflow and more importantly, they are combustible and can cause dangerous chimney fires if the deposits ignite in the chimney.
Heaters that burn natural gas drastically reduce the amount of creosote buildup due to natural gas burning much cleaner and more efficiently than traditional solid fuels. While in most cases there is no need to clean a gas chimney on an annual basis that does not mean that other parts of the chimney cannot fall into disrepair. Disconnected or loose chimney fittings caused by corrosion over time can pose serious dangers for residents due to leakage of carbon monoxide into the home.[11] Thus, it is recommended—and in some countries even mandatory—that chimneys be inspected annually and cleaned on a regular basis to prevent these problems. The workers who perform this task are called chimney sweeps or steeplejacks. This work used to be done largely by child labour and, as such, features in Victorian literature. In the Middle Ages in some parts of Europe, a stepped gable design was developed, partly to provide access to chimneys without use of ladders.
Masonry (brick) chimneys have also proven to be particularly prone to crumbling during earthquakes. Government housing authorities in cities prone to earthquakes such as San Francisco, Los Angeles, and San Diego now recommend building new homes with stud-framed chimneys around a metal flue. Bracing or strapping old masonry chimneys has not proven to be very effective in preventing damage or injury from earthquakes. It is now possible to buy "faux-brick" facades to cover these modern chimney structures.
Other potential problems include:
Several chimneys with observation decks were built. The following possibly incomplete list shows them.
At several thermal power stations at least one smokestack is used as electricity pylon. The following possibly incomplete list shows them.
Nearly all this structures exist in an area, which was once part of the Soviet Union. Although this use has the disadvantage that conductor ropes may corrode faster due to the exhaust gases, one can find such structures also sometimes in countries not influenced by the former Soviet Union. An example herefore is one chimney of Scholven Power Plant in Gelsenkirchen, which carries one circuit of an outgoing 220 kV-line.
Chimneys can also carry a water tank on their structure. This combination has the advantage that the warm smoke running through the chimney prevents the water in the tank from freezing. Before World War II such structures were not uncommon, especially in countries influenced by Germany.
Chimneys can carry antennas for radio relay services, cell phone transmissions, FM-radio and TV on their structure. Also long wire antennas for mediumwave transmissions can be fixed at chimneys. In all cases it had to be considered that these objects can easily corrode especially when placed near the exhaust. Sometimes chimneys were converted into radio towers and are not useable as ventilation structure any more.
As chimneys are often the tallest part of a factory, they offer the possibility as advertising billboard either by writing the name of the company to which they belong on the shaft or by installing advertisement boards on their structure.
At some power stations, which are equipped with plants for the removal of sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides, it is possible to use the cooling tower as a chimney. Such cooling towers can be seen in Germany at the Großkrotzenburg Power Station and at the Rostock Power Station. At power stations that are not equipped for removing sulfur dioxide, such usage of cooling towers could result in serious corrosion problems which are not easy to prevent.
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